Charming ‘seaside town without sea’ with great views and ice cream | Travel News | Travel

The charming village of Parkgate on the Wirral peninsula, near Liverpool, is renowned for its award-winning ice cream, fish and chips and breathtaking views across the Dee Estuary towards the Welsh hills – yet it once boasted a beach and open waters for swimming. Roughly 300 years ago, this extraordinary ‘seaside town with no sea’ was home to one of Britain’s busiest ports, widely regarded as Cheshire’s gateway to Ireland.

The port was not only used to trade goods between England and Dublin, but also played a crucial role in Irish migration to the UK. As the River Dee underwent the natural process of silting during the 1800s, the retreating waters gave rise to a beach resort where visitors would flock for sea bathing. Today, the water has withdrawn from Parkgate entirely, leaving it cut off from both the River Dee and the Irish Sea, making it a rather peculiar destination where you can soak up seaside vibes without a drop of seawater in sight.

What was formerly a beach has since been replaced by a saltmarsh and RSPB nature reserve, with an abundance of wildlife drawing birdwatchers and ramblers from across the North West. High tide now occurs only a handful of times each year – and it proves quite the spectacle.

Hundreds of visitors descend upon the area to witness the water rising over the marshes and washing up against the sea wall along the promenade, briefly transforming Parkgate into a genuine seaside town once more, if only fleetingly.

Laura Atkins, senior supervisor at The Boat House pub in Parkgate, told the ECHO: “You know if it’s going to be a high tide because you see everybody gathering. We get all the bird watchers coming down. They set their tents up down there.”

During high tide, visitors can observe everything from ducks to geese and birds of prey at close quarters from the promenade, now referred to as “the Parade”. It’s the picturesque vistas from the Parade stretching across to the hills of North Wales that draw people to the locale for an ice cream or a meal at one of Parkgate’s cafes, pubs and restaurants.

The Boat House traces its origins to 1926 when it was constructed as a tearoom fashioned in the shape of a boat on the site of a historic inn. Today the pub’s outdoor terraces overlook the marshland and provide an excellent suntrap throughout the summer months.

Regarding award-winning ice cream, Parkgate boasts an abundance of options, with the Parkgate Homemade Ice Cream Shop and Nicholls of Parkgate positioned side by side.

Joe Lyon resides and works at Parkgate Homemade Ice Cream Shop, which his mum Dawn has owned since 1984. Joe began lending a hand in the shop at the age of 14 and hopes to one day take over the reins from his mother.

Joe told the ECHO: “I realise what a lovely life my mum has had running it. Owning an ice cream shop – it’s the happiness business isn’t it? I can see why she’s lasted for 40 years and I’m happy to do it for the next 40 years. It’s a destination to come to. We get people from all over the North West wanting to come to Parkgate. Although we’re geographically on the Wirral peninsula, Parkgate is Cheshire’s only coastal strip.

“You can’t find this anywhere else really. I think it’s fabulous. The tide came in a few weeks ago and two fellas came past on boats. It really is a phenomenon. It’s the seaside with no sea. People still like the fish and chips and they like having an ice cream sat by the sea. I think we’re all quite nautical aren’t we? It’s in our genetics, in our DNA. We want the sunshine, we want the blue skies and we want to be by the sea.”

Despite the rivalry with the neighbouring ice cream shop, Joe said he could not ask for better neighbours, with both establishments helping one another out whenever they run short of serviettes or ice cream cones.

Nicholls of Parkgate originally started life as a milkshake bar in 1933 before branching out into serving ice cream. The beloved shop has remained in the same family’s hands since the 1980s, serving loyal generations of customers throughout that time.

Anthony Collier, who runs the shop alongside his father William, told the ECHO: “My dad bought the business in 1987. There used to be a Post Office and the ice cream, and now it’s one big shop.” The shop’s ice cream flavours, ranging from ginger to raspberry ripple and mint choc chip, rotate on a regular basis, with large tubs also available for customers and local businesses alike. On a bright sunny day, visitors frequently stop off for an ice cream during a leisurely stroll along the Parade, which connects with the Wirral Way.”

Anthony said: “I suppose it’s a fairly cheap day out because it’s not like going to a theme park. Kids and families can have a walk and have an ice cream. People come to see the view and the birds.”

Head chef Ben Mounsey and manager Tom Myles took over No.1 Parkgate in April in 2023, with ambitions to bring something fresh and distinctive to the area. The café-turned-restaurant takes great pride in serving locally sourced produce, supplied by nearby fishmongers, butchers and greengrocers.

The daytime menu centres around brunch and freshly prepared sandwiches, complemented by coffee and wine. On Fridays and Saturdays, No.1 Parkgate additionally offers an evening menu featuring a selection of small plates, ranging from heritage tomatoes with goat’s cheese to scallops with pea and samphire.

Parkgate’s Parade also boasts no shortage of excellent pubs. The Boathouse is located at one end of the promenade, while the Ship and the Old Quay are positioned at the other.

The Red Lion pub stands in the centre of the Parade and can trace its history back to 1776. When proprietors Marc and Jess Edmunds assumed ownership of the Red Lion in June 2021, it had stood vacant for six months and required renovation. It has since been subjected to an extensive refurbishment with the goal of drawing in customers across all age groups.

The Red Lion provides food until 5pm daily and is frequently fully booked on Sundays for its Sunday roast platters, which are accompanied by three roast meats, roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings, vegetables and a jug of gravy.

John, who manages the Red Lion, told the ECHO: “We’re very much focused on the community. Our service level is exceptional. We do table service which most pubs don’t do. The biggest thing that put Parkgate on the map was lockdown – you could only travel locally and people didn’t really know Parkgate.”

Parkgate also appeared in the BBC documentary Villages by the Sea in 2023, which John said contributed to drawing visitors to the locale. Nevertheless, he stated it continues to be “a hidden gem” that many remain unaware of.